Da Yoop – Part 1
- At October 06, 2013
- By Brian
- In Brian's posts, Places
- 6
As somebody who lives “up north” in the eyes of most Michiganders, I try and head up north myself at least a few times a year, meaning the Upper Peninsula. I was lucky enough to recently have a week in September off from work and headed across the bridge with a buddy and a car full of gear (aka beer and encased meats) for a tour around the eastern UP. Here’s some shots and a brief recap of our trip.
Here’s a visual of our approximate route:
View Larger Map
We drove close to 900 miles in 5 days (in a Prius, relax hippies). That’s an average of a little over 3 hours in the car each day. When put that way it sounds kind of awful, but driving around in what feels like the middle of nowhere has a great sense of adventure to it.
We headed up late in the afternoon from TC to near Grand Marais to set up camp and hit the sack before an early morning back in the car. That first morning was a trip directly to the Mouth of the 2-Hearted River. I’d only been here once before and that was before the Duck Lake fires in 2012 so I was very curious to see how the area was recovering. Some of the growth is coming back, but there was some damage to the campground and the general store near there was completely destroyed. Driving through the burn zone was definitely both fascinating and depressing. I’ve never visited a wildlife area after it was ravaged by fire. The picture below gives a sense of how surreal it was; both beautiful and a reminder of nature’s devastating power.
Finally we arrived where the 2-Hearted runs into Lake Superior. This is one of my favorite spots in the world. It’s incredibly remote (it’s billed as the most remote campground in the UP. IN THE UP!) and after the long, winding drive down dirt roads, you feel like you’ve arrived at the end of the world. The magnitude of Lake Superior is amazing and the silence is rejuvenating.
Unfortunately, we didn’t camp here this trip, but just wandered around the beach for a bit before heading onward. We also got buzzed by a Bald Eagle, but didn’t have the cameras at the ready. So that kind of sucked.
Next up was a quick stop at Tahquamenon Falls on our way back to Grand Marais before attempting to find a campsite at 12-Mile Beach in Pictured Rocks.
Lunch at Lake Superior Brewing Company in Grand Marais was a must, but not before making a phone call real quick at what has to be the only remaining phone booth in the state.
Everybody I know that’s been to Lake Superior Brewing Company raves about it. I’ll be honest, it looks like your typical hole-in-the-wall UP dive bar. In fact, I’ve been to Grand Marias numerous times but had never stopped at LSBC for that exact reason, you can’t even tell if it’s open for business until you walk inside. But once you head in you
realize why it has such a great reputation: good food, decent beer, & friendly service. The food at LSBC is your typical bar fare, but it’s really well done, especially when it’s the last meal you aren’t preparing yourself on a camp stove for a few days. I had fried fish and it was dusted perfectly with batter and lightly fried. They typically have 3-4 of their own beers on tap. The blueberry wheat was quite refreshing. You can count me in now as another advocate for this place as a must stop when passing near Grand Marais.
After our resupply we headed straight to 12-Mile Beach in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and set up camp for a few days. This ensued:
We had perfect weather for the first part of our trip, low 70s and sunny with a light breeze. If you haven’t been to 12-Mile Beach then you’re missing out. The campground is up along a bluff overlooking Lake Superior. But due to its beauty, it’s very popular & I’ve had a few trips where we had to resort to “plan B” because it was full. But if you can snag a spot I definitely suggest staying for as long as you can, the landscape is second to none.
Part 2 to be posted shortly…stay tuned!
Beach Walks in September
- At September 29, 2013
- By Kim
- In Kim's posts, Places
- 2
September brings with it a bit of melancholy each year. Evenings of care-free exploration, spurred on by the long hours of daylight, are replaced with a return to seriousness and awareness that another year is passing. Each evening as the sun sets a little earlier, we are gently reminded that we should head home; after all it’s a “school night” now. The tourists and migrating birds alike all return south and we are left with our beach towns and their quietude.
The beaches, in their abandonment, seem to be the perfect spot to muse on this passing of seasons. As my mom, daughter (with her increasingly weighted-down pockets of rocks), and I walked along the lakeshore near Pyramid Point and Port Oneida this past weekend, we found ourselves utterly alone for miles, free to take it all in at our own pace.
We collected bits of nature. We watched the freighters passing through the Manitou Passage and the ferry heading home from the Manitou to Leland. We saw the resident bald eagles flying overhead and noticed the upended trees that had succumbed to the erosion of Pyramid Point.
The change at this location is so dramatic each year. The shifting landscape, the turn of the seasons, and the knowledge of how much difference another year will bring to my child: it makes the quote from the English writer Julian Barnes ever more poignant:
“When you’re young you prefer the vulgar months, the fullness of the seasons. As you grow older you learn to like the in-between times, the months that can’t make up their minds. Perhaps it’s a way of admitting that things can’t ever bear the same certainty again.”
Along this shoreline, much will change by the time the warm weather returns. We will change too. But what is certain for me and my walking partners is that we will reunite and reacquaint ourselves with this shoreline, in all its glory, again next year. And hopefully for many more to come.
Mountain Biking at Glacial Hills
- At September 04, 2013
- By Brian
- In Brian's posts, Places
- 0
As summer winds down and those days at the beach become less frequent, one great way to spend your weekend days is out on some of Northern Michigan’s primo mountain-biking trails. This area is quickly becoming a cycling destination with the amazing trail networks right in our backyard, including the VASA, Muncie Lake Trails, and the Big M. Throw in one of the country’s premier races, The Iceman; the early season tune-up Mud, Sweat, and Beers; & the inaugural X100, and riders head here from all over the state to get their fix of singletrack and speed. But a recent newcomer to the mountain biking scene is currently the talk of the locals; that would be Glacial Hills, just outside the quaint village of Bellaire.
While hiking around Glacial is a great way to spend an afternoon, tearing it up on your mountain bike is why this place is quickly becoming one of the go-to spots in Northern Michigan for riding. The singletrack was cut in a way to make it flow smoothly while flying around on your bike. There aren’t any super-steep climbs or hairy descents, it’s just smooth and fast, all the way around. And while it definitely does get your heart pumping, it would be an enjoyable ride even for the novice cyclist as there isn’t anything technical out there that’ll cause you to hesitate. In fact, trying to describe how fun this place is to ride is pretty difficult, so check out the video below (that I shot with a camera strapped to my helmet) to get an idea.
Details of one of my ride’s out at Glacial are in the photo gallery below. And here’s a link to that ride on Strava.
If there was a knock on Glacial it would be that some of the new trail is being cut a little wide, so it isn’t singletrack, but it is still a blast to ride and you can actually open it up a little bit more than on the tighter stuff. Just be careful as there are often hikers out there as well as other cyclists (the trail isn’t directional, meaning you can ride either clockwise or counter-clockwise).
Even better yet is the recent addition of miles more of trails, all located on the Vandermark Road side (trail map). Rumor is that eventually there will be 20+ miles of trails. Also worth noting is that these new trails have a trailhead at Orchard Hill Road, meaning you can hop on the asphalt and after 5 minutes of pedaling, you’re in downtown Bellaire. Best way to make an epic day on the trail even better: drinking Michigan craft beer.
You can access Glacial Hills from 3 trailheads. Eckhardt and Vandermark roads both have parking lots and both of these roads are accessible from Bellaire Highway. Orchard Hill Road is on your left as you head north out of downtown Bellaire.
A ride at Glacial Hills on a crisp day during color season is an easy way to make you forget all about summer!
Girls’ Night – Sleeping Bear Dunes
- At August 26, 2013
- By Kim
- In Kim's posts, Places
- 3
During the summer months Up North, sometimes the hustle and bustle can get the best of us. Occasionally we all can use an evening of rejuvenation. Reconnecting with the land and beautiful scenery away from the crowds is a great way to do just that. Throw in some girl time, a bottle of wine, and a simple picnic enjoyed 450 feet up; I may not even need to dive into Lake Michigan to feel refreshed. Remember the National Lakeshore has 71,187 acres in total…room for all of us I think…even for the introverts among us.
So go ahead and put on your hiking shoes, strap a baguette to your pack, bring along some locally made hummus from The Redheads and raclette from Leelanau Cheese, a local bottle of wine, and off you go. I’d tell you where we hiked this
night, but I am one of the introverts among us. Sorry folks.
Special thanks to Erin Attwood for contributing to the photos for this post.
Drummond Island
- At August 01, 2013
- By Mo
- In Places
- 2
My annual vacation to Drummond Island Michigan started when I was around 12 years old. My parents always made the 4 hour trip from Traverse City an adventure. We start off stopping in Atwood, MI for doughnuts, and sweets at Friske Orchards. Then head to Charlevoix for exactly one hour of shopping (the allotted time given by my dad which is essential for my mother and me). After that, a quick jaunt to Cheboygan where we check out one of the largest nautical novelty shops around, Sea Shell City. After stocking up on shells we hike up the World famous Castle Rock in St. Ignace. The Rock rises almost 200’ above the surrounding area with amazing views of over 20 miles. Followed by a trip to the Mystery Spot which is unexplainably awesome.
Drummond is an oasis of wildlife. Deer are a very common sight, with the occasional bear lumbering by. Deer hunting is the reason my family purchased property and built a cabin on the Island. They discovered the area years ago and fell in love with the peaceful, simple atmosphere that everyone desires while on a vacation (along with all the deer!).
By the time we hit the D.I. Ferry and arrive on the Island it takes about 20 minutes to get to our cabin. A stop at one of the 3 local bars is necessary after the long drive. Chuck’s Place Bar and Grill is truly the definition of “down home” country atmosphere. The friendly hospitality is as great as the food! Another stop during our trip is a place called Esther’s Authentic Mexican Food. Esther was born and raised in Mexico and can cook up some spicy delicious treats. Typically one of the nights we stay in and my Dad deep fries just about anything for dinner. My favorites are chicken wings, French fries, and deep-fried Oreos!
While on Drummond we pack up the cooler and take a day trip ride on the four wheelers up to Marblehead Mountain. Marblehead is located at the easternmost point of the Upper Peninsula. It rises only 100′ above the waves but commands sweeping views of northern Lake Huron and Canada. Marblehead is a truly remarkable place, well worth the muddy, wet, and steep excursion. There are so many other things you can experience on the Island. Ricks Sports Shop for hunting and fishing advice; swimming at Big Shoal Beach; golfing at The Rock, where you are guaranteed to see deer; hiking the trails searching for Puddingstones, a beautiful and rare rock found on the Island; Shopping at the Four Corners (Drummond’s “downtown”); shooting skeet; and of course enjoying a drink with family and friends around the fire.
One of my absolute favorite parts about Drummond are the people. Every single person waves at you when they drive by! They are so incredibly welcoming and love to talk about their unique paradise. I will admit, after spending a few days it’s hard to leave such a serene dwelling. Without city light for miles the stars are brighter than you will ever see. I’m so lucky that Drummond Island will be a part of my life for many years to come.
Drummond Island is located one mile off the eastern tip of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, only 60 miles from the Mackinac Bridge. It is one of the largest Islands in Lake Huron & the largest freshwater island in the United States. Over two-thirds of the island is state land, so there is lots of access to the outdoors. Visitors to the island can arrive by airplane, boat, or ferry (departs from DeTour Village and can carry your car or snowmobile). I suggest you visit!