Sleeping Bear Kayaking: Empire Beach to Glen Haven
- At September 24, 2014
- By Nick Nerbonne
- In Nick N.'s posts, Paddling, Places
- 2
At over 70,000 acres, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore offers plenty of room to roam. One of my favorite ways to enjoy the Lakeshore is in a kayak, and with 35 miles of pristine Lake Michigan shoreline, it’s pretty easy to find a quiet place to explore.
Last month when the weather forecast called for calm winds, blue skies, and warm temperatures on a Saturday morning, a sight-seeing tour of the world’s largest freshwater sand dunes by kayak seemed like a great idea. I talked fellow Northern Swag contributor Kim Schwaiger into joining me with promises of stunning views and – given the 6 am departure – plenty of coffee.
We had the beach and lake to ourselves as we unloaded the boats and paddled into the Big Lake toward Sleeping Bear in the pre-dawn light, taking in the views both behind and in front of us.
The sun began to rise as we made our way up the lake, and finally emerged from behind the hills and dunes as we passed the outlet at North Bar Lake, illuminating the landscape as we paddled north.
The view from the overlook atop Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive is one of
my favorite views in Michigan, but seeing the 450-foot face of Sleeping Bear Dunes up close from a kayak wasn’t too shabby either.
As we passed in front of the dunes, the light breeze from the east disappeared, turning the surface of Lake Michigan to glass, which doesn’t happen often, creating plenty of photo-ops.
As we continued on, the sun rose above the dunes, highlighting the crystal-clear water and the ridges of sand below.
Rounding Sleeping Bear Point, conditions were pretty much perfect. We couldn’t help but stop to soak up the sun and take in the surroundings before continuing on to our destination at Glen Haven.
I’ve paddled on Lake Michigan along various sections of the Lakeshore a half-dozen times or so, and there are a few things I’ve learned along the way.
- Respect the “big water.” Lake Michigan is a massive body of water and can turn from calm to surly in a matter of minutes. Even if you’re an experienced paddler, don’t take unnecessary risks. We stayed pretty close to shore for the duration of our route.
- Wear a life jacket. You never know what might happen, and your safety is worth it.
- Bring plenty of water and a snack to provide an energy boost mid-paddle.
- Get a dry bag. We used these for our cameras and cell phones.
This latest paddle along the shoreline of Sleeping Bear was an amazing experience. Our window of favorable conditions is closing quickly for this year, but if you live in the area or are planning a visit next summer, a kayak offers a unique point of view of this beautiful landscape.
Cycling Glen Lake(s)
- At August 18, 2014
- By Brian
- In Brian's posts, Cycling, Places
- 0
If you haven’t noticed, we get pretty excited about exploring northern Michigan on our bicycles. It’s just incredibly fun. For one of our latest rides, we hopped on the bikes at Old Settlers Park on the southeast side of Big Glen Lake. From there, if you hug the coastline of Big & Little Glen, it’s just shy of 20 miles (19.6 to be exact) around the lakes.
You start off by heading southwest along Big Glen and climbing up the steep side of Inspiration Point, which will definitely get the heart pumping. Then you’re along the coastline for the majority of the ride. There’s some great overlooks of the lakes from the tops of Inspiration Point and Dunns Farm Road so I recommend climbing off the bike a couple times and taking in the view.
The ride ends with a modest climb up Dunns Hill Climb before you roll back into Old Settlers Park. Post-ride sustenance abounds with our favorites being Art’s Tavern in Glen Arbor and Joe’s in Empire. We’re of the opinion that this ride earns you at least 10,000 calories worth of veggie burgers, fries, and beer!
Evening Kayak on the Cedar River
- At August 16, 2014
- By Kim
- In Kim's posts, Paddling, Places
- 1
Steps from where the annual polka fest occurs each year in Cedar lies the Cedar River, a
hidden treasure that couldn’t be more different than the rambuctious, crowd-filled festival we tend to associate with its namesake town.
The kayak from Cedar to Lake Leelanau has been on my bucket list for over a year. I had been on the river once before and had seen first-hand that the spot not only offered serenity for an evening, but hold onto your shorts…BIRD SIGHTINGS. So I was determined to go again and make it all the way to Lake Leelanau this time, a 7-mile kayak round trip that includes a section preserved by the Leelanau Conservancy.
Paddling on this river is different than the better-known Platte or Crystal outings for a couple of reasons. One, the river is deep enough to accommodate motorized boats, so while you won’t see many people at all on this paddle, the folks you do see can vary from fellow paddlers to fishermen who may take out their frustration of an unsuccessful evening by full-throttling it past you, leaving a wake of waves and gasoline fumes. Two, while you may have to avoid some wake, there are significantly fewer obstacles of Dorito-eating tourists and floating, beer-laden coolers. Don’t get us wrong, we love Doritos, beer, and tourists; just not kayaking around the them tied together en masse.
The night we were out, we ran into several herons, cedar waxwings, muskrats, and some nice folks out for a sunset cruise that kindly offered us both a tow back to the boat launch and some adult beverages. Although we decided we preferred the self-propelled route, we did graciously accept a glass of wine and a bottle of beer for the return trip. Thank you pontoon booze fairies!
Our parting tips:
1. This trip can take up to three hours and you will work up an appetite. Bring snacks (Doritos come to mind).
2. Once you have passed the age of twelve, it is no longer acceptable to yell at your companions for scaring off the blue herons before you have a chance to snap a photo. Don’t do it.
3. Watch out for stumps lurking under the water. Stumps are to your kayak what icebergs were to the Titanic…or something a little less dramatic.
4. If this isn’t on your bucket list, ADD IT. Then be sure to make it happen. You will be amazed at the solitude, serenity, and truly unique experience that lies hidden behind the softball fields, polka tent, and meat markets of Cedar, Michigan.
Swag in the Air – Mackinac Island
- At August 05, 2014
- By Kim
- In Kim's posts, Places
- 1
I received a text from a friend this past weekend asking if Cora and I would like to fly to Mackinac Island for the day. My response? Does anyone seriously answer that question with a no? I didn’t think so… We met Jon and his Cessna at bustling Empire airport, where we (a.k.a. Jon) managed to fit the pieces of three bikes, our smiling faces, and my camera into the plane.
After an epic flight that included aerial views of Glen Lake, Suttons Bay, Old Mission, Lake Charlevoix, and the mighty Mac, we arrived on the island. By my estimation (or slight exaggeration), the flight took less time than waiting in line to buy a ticket on the ferry.
After a quick reassembly of the bikes and a mile-and-a-half ride to Main Street, we were enjoying the truly unique experiences of the island: amazing history, architecture, the most fun/chaotic streets around, and fudge (duh). We also enjoyed a visit to the butterfly conservatory, which was surprisingly enjoyable for adults too!
If you haven’t been to the island since your middle school field trip, we think it’s time you consider going again. And if you have an opportunity to visit the island via air, it is a no-brainer, go! It will be a once in a lifetime experience. Mackinac is a little island in time (literally, the entire island is listed as a national historic monument). Leaving with our tourist trinkets in hand was a little bittersweet, but at least we had the views on the way home (and fudge) to distract us!
North Bar at Sunset
- At July 25, 2014
- By Kim
- In Kim's posts, Places
- 1
As Michiganders, we have learned to live with unpredictable weather. On the up side, we can head out to the beach under overcast skies with a forecast for storms, and end up enjoying a magnificent (dry) sunset once the clouds break. Below are some photos of an evening’s progression at North Bar in Leelanau County from earlier this week.